Random Thoughts 2

Around this point in a class session, we start reviewing how everyone is doing…what patterns do we see, what concepts might help students move forward.  So, from Mary Ann & Judi, with awesome insights from Michele, please read on!

1. “Trust your dog.”  If you go to any internet tracking site, someone will say that. It it has validity—this is the dog’s skill, and we are simply observers. Oh yeah-observers.  So in order to trust your dog, you need to be able to read your dog’s behavior….so that trust is in behaviors that you recognize as tracking.  Can’t see them? Watch your video in slo-mo.  More than once.  How do you and the dog develop this level of communication? By training.  So the more you train track precision, the more clear your dog’s communication will be.  We could rephrase that overused statement to, “trust your TRAINED dog with your TRAINED eye.”

2. Think about your language.  My friend Kyla often helps me rephrase training dilemmas, and I’d like to encourage all to think about how we use language.  Some of you regularly refer to you and your dog as a team (Fletch and I, Jack & me, we did _____, etc).  Some of you regularly refer to your dog as though they are separate from you (Rosie did X, Rover does Y, she’s _______).  Some of you repeatedly tell us “I suck” “It’s my fault” “I’m a bad________.” “She’s good, I need to work on me.” Can you read those and see where the teamwork is lacking?  Can you see the negativity?  You and your dog are a TEAM. Period.  50/50.  He can’t track for cookies without you.  You can’t follow a tracking dog without him.  Let’s change the language and see the dog as our partner, not the “other.”

3. Walk ups matter. How your team gets to the start flag matters.  If the dog is dragging you, first, where’s the teamwork? Second, how calm is he going to be when he starts? What’s his adrenaline level?  If you don’t have solid loose leash walking skills, I strongly recommend the book Walking Together by Simone Mueller.  It’s cheap, there’s a kindle edition, and it’s pretty straightforward.  Follow the plan and I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

4. In addition….if you are worked up, you’re not helping your dog. Kara found meditation really helped her tracking. I’m a big believer in meditation….. Being mindful, thoughtful, calm, measured…these traits are all going to impact your dog. The calmer you are, the better you’ll be able to respond to your dog—and the more behaviors you will see. FWIW, I’m a bit fan of the app Happier. There are others.

5. How much thought do you give to your track while you are putting it in?  Are you simply reciting your scuff walk pattern, or are you actually looking at the area you are in an identifying possible challenges?  Scuff walk food patterns are a guide….and if you pay attention you’ll see challenges that are best met with extra scuffing and maybe a bigger food drop.  Say you are using a public park and you see the entrance to a walking trail at the edge of your field—that’s a challenge; bare dirt under a tree, or acorns, or gumballs; a sidewalk or ditch; tracking close to traffic; hills—the list is endless.  Adjust your track laying to make sure your dog is successful. ASK US if something was or might be hard—we can help you (granted, sometimes after the fact) lay the track.  Hint—if it’s not the same cover, the same terrain, the same surroundings as the start of the track…it’s probably harder—and requires that you augment the track.  Personally, if it looks really hard to me (bare ground with acorns or gumballs) I’m going to scuff AND drop food every other footstep—I want the dog to learn he can do this—I don’t want him to struggle and find other things to do.

6. For those of you who have been directed to let line run at turns…you should also be letting the line run at the start.  If letting the line run is your goal for the day, please make sure you’ve put a scatter of food  past the turn & start.  It should be far enough down the track that the dog does NOT hit it while the line is running, but rather a couple of yards after.  And, of course, after the line runs, hustle your butt up to 6-10 feet!  Please notice the “if this is your goal for the day.” Let’s not let the line run every time, but rather work it into your training sequence.  Today, I’m doing starts and will let the line run.  Tomorrow I’m doing stairstep and will work at no more than 10’, next I’ll do duration and will practice moving up and down the line.   And maybe next time you start the sequence you’ll let the line run on stairstep, and hold at 10’ for everything else.  Does that make sense?

7. IF you are letting the line run, on days that’s not the goal, put that scatter out there a few yards past your 10’ line, and let the dog give the line a little tug—look for stifle flexion.  Trust us on this….you DO want a dog who can order you to follow when you grow roots at a turn.  Happy feet (human feet that move for any reason) need self discipline! Ask for the tug (by NOT going) when the dog is on the track, spine straight—hold tight for a millisecond, and then go (with tension of course).  Over many reps, gradually build the strength of the tug.  Clearly this can not be taught on blind tracks!

8. How many of you have measured your stride?  How accurate are your leg lengths?  Let’s not get to a test and be shocked at how long 495 yards is!  Can you reliably put a second flag at 30 yards?

9. Last but not least….have you read the rules yet?  In the remaining three weeks of class Mary Ann, Anne, Valerie, & Ralph will be quizzing each of you on the rules.  When you enter any AKC event you sign a document that says you know & understand the rules.  Let’s make sure you do!  Rule questions are always welcome!

Three weeks of class left, you are all doing great. You’ve made astonishing progress (please go back and look at your first video). Let’s clean up the language!